Once again...

I love repeating myself...
No, really.
This post, like so many recently simply says...
"really good out, head high on the sets, easy channel, long rights into some nasty shorebreak and yes, one other guy out."
copypasta...
How are you little fucker? I sent a link so I could at least know you are alive...I will do more this am.

But the difference would be I rode the C4 instead of groveling on the little board. It was a bit mushy and backing off but wide open faces had me reaching for the paddle.
Had some fun drops and managed to lay the board over on a decent cutback-to-fade-to-bottom-turn.
I like the way that board surfs.
Or I surf on the board.
No matter, black or dark black, same.
Hope you are out paddling into the Sunrise, I rode the biggest waves ever on the SUP yesterday at South End, so big my legs were shaking!
Stella is out of school today so no repeat...dammit.
That's ok. Lots to do here around the house, like harvest a cat or two.
Fucking cats.
I hope you shoot me a text or two toady, I will at least say hi!
My paddle repair is holding up, nice because usually when you break the strength of a cylinder, it stays broken. But if it held up in yesterdays mad dashes, it's good to go.
Well ya little shit, be careful this weekend....love ya in all the right ways, good thoughts for your Mother...
In other news...I don't have any.
Oh, supposed to go somewhere next weekend, the 10th through the 15th, plan accordingly.
Kisses...
Go take on the day, do all of the right things, enjoy the weekend, the weather, get some surf, don't whine-its only as good as you can make it.

See ya...

My goodness...

Ok, not mine, my good fortune perhaps but not my goodness...the goodness was all in the water this morning.

And your day went how my Dear?

I made the call late but it was tidal anyway and it helps to know which is which.
like is it better later in the tidal?
Or?
wtf? 
Hope it was good, I am sure you may have had a hangover or three but...it was a planned hangover, those are not so bad...I guess.
Yeah so  I got some, it was fun, sunny and warm for a few hours. Lots of mist leftover from yesterday and the swell that came and went. Not that 12 feet on the buoys isn't a swell...
wtf?
I got some surf today at Sunset, was pretty fun, shoulder high a few times, you would have liked it. Up the creek even.

Ok, back to the drawing board.
Did have to work a bit today too.
That was fun.

Well, going to send you a link to somewhere we can use the pm system for email...sorry but it's what we can do. 

Uh...well shit, that's all I got tonight.
Tonight?
Why am I posting at night?
wtf?

mfw

Missed it...

Yeah, it was good somewhere yesterday, I got out there way after the tide swap and found only mist and drainers killing the sandbars...
Oh well, there is always this morning...

How are you? Have fun last night?

Hope so, chin up little fucker...

In other news...the teabaggers got a few of their loons elected...
Just fuck me as to how stupid people are in this country.

I hope things work out for your Mother, must be the hardest thing, I understand though, I have been there...

Any way...not much else here, did finally get a good repair on my paddle shaft.
I drilled out either side and screwed in threaded 2/4 stock bathed in epoxy, reglassed the outside bit and used it yesterday, it's solid again.
Good because at 300.00...

Love ya....be good and have a nice day of some sort...

Ok, do the right thing, get some while you can, today is good...lolz...
See ya....

Whew...

Just what I needed...
I score some decent surf on occasion, I at least get to check it every day or any time I think there is something in the water...
Yesterday, after firing off one sad email, I go the feeling that there may be a little something stirring somewhere so I drove out to have a look.
Needed to get in the water anyway, regardless...
I checked the usual suspects and found a stiff wind blasting into some sizeable faces.
Met Pete in the lot, we checked two other spots but decided that one spot, though it looked smaller, had some shape and not quite as much wind.
We suited up, made the hike and found ourselves out in some 4' perfection peeling into a nice channel.
It didn't stay 4' for long.
Swell started building with every set or so it seemed, larger waves were swinging wide to our left but still holding up for 70 yards. Lots of water moving around but we managed to pick off set wave after set wave.
In fact, it was the best session I have had at this spot ever.
By the time I had my tenth wave, sets were OH and in 8 wave sets.
We took a few on the head but overall, best session ever.

I rode the 6'6" mini and had some section making bottom turns that felt so good underfoot.

Unreal open faces for a beach break spot, felt more like a lined up point break.
And no, the Coconut Telegraph remained silent.
Two out was plenty.
That's right.
Two.
Funny that way.
Fourth time in three weeks of empty perfection only with some size this session.
Nice.

Stoked.

I should mention the water has warmed up too.
55 ain't bad.
Supposed to be huge today, I can't hear it but then again, I live 3 miles away from the nearest break.
And I am old.

In other news...
Don't have any.

Elections are today...and nothing will change. But vote anyway if you haven't already.
Sorry but our system of Government is no longer working.

Blame money.

Well, off to make lunches, feed the cats, make a plan, check the buoys and maybe spend some more time in the water. If the swell does get the size predicted, we won't have a spot but it will be fun to watch.
You won't find me out in 20' at 18 seconds...nope.

Anyway, do the right thing, keep hope alive, don't despair, find a need and fill it.
And always paddle harder than the guy or girl next to you...always.

See ya...

My goodness, turn off the fucking light....

Yeah so, it's like 11:20 am and I am just starting to sober up...
Had a wild night with Hookah Stew at the Mill, not only does my head hurt but my legs feel like I danced for hours.
I must have, I can't find my shoes.
Oh wait, I wasn't wearing any.
That explains that.
But yeah, lots of Tequila because I could, some beer because I hate the shit, some dancing because Hookah makes you shake your ass and some
hash because we are flooded with weed this time of year...
Really.

135 an oz for local indoor.

Pocket Trash  from last night:

Three guitar picks from Johnny's
mic stand pick holder, 4 crumpled dollar bills, two roaches, one Rasta looking lighter, 7 quarters and a cigarette butt.

Ok...now what? Um more sober please thank you.

I would check the surf but I would need a cab to get there and our local cabbies don't have racks and it is supposed to be rather small today any way.
Hmmm, would sober up quickly though if I trunked it.
Right, ain't that drunk.

Ok, moving on, Happy Halloween kiddies, last of our parties tonight at Bitin's house, my bus is full of firewood for them, should run over there before too long.

Um...that's it I guess.

Happy Anniversary Crystal!

9 years, picture is from our wedding on Nye Beach.
And yes, I am a slim size 22 in a dress.

That's it kiddies, enjoy your candy!

Cover

Double session yesterday, first up a few waves at the waiting spot...waiting for the tide to fill in.
I like this little spot on days like yesterday, small but clean and predictable. Decent peaks to the left and right of my favorite Island rock, even managed a few in between the Island and the board killer I call The Elephant.
Elephant?
Well yeah, want to know what it looks like at certain tides?
An elephant.
Trouble with big round rocks is water tends to spill off rather than splash so this Elephant pops up quickly.
It's the only rock I have ever hit at this spot, it's bit the nose of the 10'0", got a fin on the little yellow and yesterday almost claimed the nose of the SUP.
I need to have a talk with that rock.
Second session was up the coast a bit or down, depending on your own planetary location.
I guess for me it was down, that planetary shit gets me...
But it too was fun, lots of late take offs into crisp green bowls. A few head high and some sweepers that came out of nowhere to keep my hair clean.
I had to do the rotation thing, this spot doesn't do a crowd, even if every one out lives here, more than 5, you should paddle out slowly and wait your turn.
It was worth it as it did get better as the tide filled in.

Water has warmed up too, maybe 53?

In other news, I wanted to glass today but we have a re-wedding to do and a party tonight, some more surprise pressure washing for my Aunt ( I am doing their patio while they are in Vegas, surprise! ) and I am sure Stella wants to play today too.
I have a 9'4" shaped out for me, a copy of the original pin which was a copy of the Bing which we copied for the Rosie board which was really a shape for me but....
Confused? You should be, you may be a surfer...
And another mini with a pulled nose at 6'6" by 23 by 17 by 17...yeah, it's square.
Not Lord Possum but close.
Because if it floats, you can surf it.
Sorta.

I pulled in the tail and added some curve for some added carve and to get the board down into the wave earlier. My wide tailed yellow tends to hang at the top if the wave is hollow at all. Not an issue except when taking off, makes for some entertaining drops.

I am going with boxes on this one so I can swap fins around, taller for bigger, smaller for...well, you know...

Yeah.
So good morning, Sun is thinking about it, rising I mean...promises...


I do have a hole I cannot fill, missing my surf buddy. Noticed yesterday as I surf the Island, even in the goodness of surfing alone, there can be sadness.
But that is this life. Sometimes you are better off not knowing what you know.
And I know.


That's all the news from Rancho de Costa Notta Mucho...
See with a hangover tomorrow...
That's right, tonight is all about hurting myself a bit...


And Sister of the Tattoo, good morning, watch your mail around Wednesday....lulz and...

wut?


Take care kiddies, do the right thing, go surfing...

Short

Had a surf yesterday, it was cold...how cold?
Cold.
But sweeping peaks out of the West made it worth it.
Didn't see any one else even looking though there were plenty of waves...
I lasted an hour and a half before I lost my hands and feet to the wind and water, next time, maybe some booties would help...
Don't do mittens though...but yeah, booties would have been smart.

It's hammering rain and 0500 right now, I am sure the sun will be up shortly, always does rise, ya know?

In other news...none really, if I don't get in the water today I might grind of my fins and fit the new boxes in on the mini. I don't know...pray for something rideable...

That's it from here except for as certain madness that seems to be sweeping...

lulz every where...