I score some decent surf on occasion, I at least get to check it every day or any time I think there is something in the water...
Yesterday, after firing off one sad email, I go the feeling that there may be a little something stirring somewhere so I drove out to have a look.
Needed to get in the water anyway, regardless...
I checked the usual suspects and found a stiff wind blasting into some sizeable faces.
Met Pete in the lot, we checked two other spots but decided that one spot, though it looked smaller, had some shape and not quite as much wind.
We suited up, made the hike and found ourselves out in some 4' perfection peeling into a nice channel.
It didn't stay 4' for long.
Swell started building with every set or so it seemed, larger waves were swinging wide to our left but still holding up for 70 yards. Lots of water moving around but we managed to pick off set wave after set wave.
In fact, it was the best session I have had at this spot ever.
By the time I had my tenth wave, sets were OH and in 8 wave sets.
We took a few on the head but overall, best session ever.
Unreal open faces for a beach break spot, felt more like a lined up point break.
And no, the Coconut Telegraph remained silent.
Two out was plenty.
That's right.
Two.
Funny that way.
Fourth time in three weeks of empty perfection only with some size this session.
Nice.
I should mention the water has warmed up too.
55 ain't bad.
Supposed to be huge today, I can't hear it but then again, I live 3 miles away from the nearest break.
And I am old.
In other news...
Don't have any.
Elections are today...and nothing will change. But vote anyway if you haven't already.
Sorry but our system of Government is no longer working.
Well, off to make lunches, feed the cats, make a plan, check the buoys and maybe spend some more time in the water. If the swell does get the size predicted, we won't have a spot but it will be fun to watch.
You won't find me out in 20' at 18 seconds...nope.
Anyway, do the right thing, keep hope alive, don't despair, find a need and fill it.
And always paddle harder than the guy or girl next to you...always.
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