I like this little spot on days like yesterday, small but clean and predictable. Decent peaks to the left and right of my favorite Island rock, even managed a few in between the Island and the board killer I call The Elephant.
Elephant?
Well yeah, want to know what it looks like at certain tides?
An elephant.
Trouble with big round rocks is water tends to spill off rather than splash so this Elephant pops up quickly.
It's the only rock I have ever hit at this spot, it's bit the nose of the 10'0", got a fin on the little yellow and yesterday almost claimed the nose of the SUP.
I need to have a talk with that rock.
Second session was up the coast a bit or down, depending on your own planetary location.
I guess for me it was down, that planetary shit gets me...
But it too was fun, lots of late take offs into crisp green bowls. A few head high and some sweepers that came out of nowhere to keep my hair clean.
I had to do the rotation thing, this spot doesn't do a crowd, even if every one out lives here, more than 5, you should paddle out slowly and wait your turn.
It was worth it as it did get better as the tide filled in.
Water has warmed up too, maybe 53?
In other news, I wanted to glass today but we have a re-wedding to do and a party tonight, some more surprise pressure washing for my Aunt ( I am doing their patio while they are in Vegas, surprise! ) and I am sure Stella wants to play today too.
I have a 9'4" shaped out for me, a copy of the original pin which was a copy of the Bing which we copied for the Rosie board which was really a shape for me but....
Confused? You should be, you may be a surfer...
And another mini with a pulled nose at 6'6" by 23 by 17 by 17...yeah, it's square.
Not Lord Possum but close.
Because if it floats, you can surf it.
Sorta.
I pulled in the tail and added some curve for some added carve and to get the board down into the wave earlier. My wide tailed yellow tends to hang at the top if the wave is hollow at all. Not an issue except when taking off, makes for some entertaining drops.
I am going with boxes on this one so I can swap fins around, taller for bigger, smaller for...well, you know...
Yeah.
So good morning, Sun is thinking about it, rising I mean...promises...
I do have a hole I cannot fill, missing my surf buddy. Noticed yesterday as I surf the Island, even in the goodness of surfing alone, there can be sadness.
But that is this life. Sometimes you are better off not knowing what you know.
And I know.
That's all the news from Rancho de Costa Notta Mucho...
See with a hangover tomorrow...
That's right, tonight is all about hurting myself a bit...
And Sister of the Tattoo, good morning, watch your mail around Wednesday....lulz and...
Take care kiddies, do the right thing, go surfing...
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