"In the last hour… something clicks. I’m so tired… but I don’t want to get out. I might not surf for months after this… I’m so afraid of losing what I have. How much I’ve learned. Like dropping the leash.
A nice right hand wave takes off, and so do I. I see the bowl stair stepping. Down to the bottom, to the middle… to the bottom… all in a slight shift of the hips. It all makes sense. So smooth. And another right… to the creek. I tuck down closer to the face and reach out my hand along the lip of the wave.
So beautiful.
Plenty of time to enjoy the wave, the board trimming along it… my hand dragging through it. That moment stretches for minutes in my mind. Magical… Stick with the rights, these are fun! Stay at the top, small bottom turn, up to the middle, cross step towards the nose… kick the board back out. Cheers from the skim boarders on shore. Wow… I think that was surfing. I can surf!!!"
anon
I love stoke.
Remember when you learned how to surf?
That first time when it all clicked and you had the same thoughts as that anon above?
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