Rollin'....

Amazing thing wi-fi, shit is every where, from unsecured home networks to parking lots over looking surf breaks. I get it but had no idea how pervasive all of these signals were.
Every where man.


I am looking for the Big Storm, pounding rain, winds of 35 knots, 20 foot surf... but I got to tell you, if it ain't where I am right now, it just ain't.

I wanted some rain, some pouring sadness, I wanted the wind to try and tell me not to get out of this van. I am dressed for it, like armor I tell ya, Goretex this, mittens, heavy duck pants and my old faithful Redwings...some funky hat I lifted from Goodwill...
What I have is a light drizzle and 8 knots from the south. I could skate a pool in this shit.
Weather people suck.
Hype.
But we are looking at some swell, don't see that either really, just a big toilet bowl of white, lit by a hidden full Moon.

Number three if you are counting.

I surfed yesterday on the SUP and the mini. Broke my paddle shaft finally.
Had some clean lines on the mini at a spot I have never surfed before and may not again. I like rocks mind you, they don't bother me, boils, pinnacles, as long as they don't move on me, I am good. On one inside race track of a wave, I went in between two rocks, tossed the board over the lip and went over the falls.
The board stayed outside but I went for a submarine ride over a flat reef covered in baby barnacles-which are sharper than adult barnacles. Did you know that? I do.
Some interesting scratches on the back of my suit. Bare skinned, I would be at some local hospital claiming a shark did it.
I don't care, waves are waves and some times, the ocean puts them in funny places.
But I will probably skip that spot next time. I don't think any one surfs there much any way, may have been a random tide, Johnny in the right spot deal. Who knows?

Well, that's all I got, searching for the infinite sadness with my pen in hand, longing for all of those things I gave away. I won't find them, not in this lifetime.

Well, maybe.
In any case, no harm in looking, right?