Three hour sandbar

Scored some nice drops into some steep bowls, the bar set up nicely on the incoming and was good through the high to dropping tide.
Ducked into a few in the shorebreak, at least got my hair wet if not a mini tube. Stuck riding the log but wishing I had something shorter with me.
Tomorrow will put me there on the mini if I get the fin done.
Nice to get some size and shape-I should mention I didn't get my hair wet on even one paddle out to the line up. But I did eat shit twice trying to run up and get ten as I passed the rocks and one starfish into the shorebreak.
SO was out hullin' on his Liddle, C was out on a 4th Gear mat and SR showed up to awe every one with his specific brand of danger surfing.
One day, that guy is going to hurt some one.
Four out and yet he almost managed to spear some one.
Geez.

Wife woke me up in a good way at 4...just rolled out of bed at 530...
I guess life is good but it could be better.
Could have ridden the mini today...
lulz...
fuck ya'll...
Live it, dream it, be it...
Because one day, you will find your ass on the other side of the dirt.
Silly Humans.

Time for a big bowl and a bowl of chili with some cheese...and a gallon of cranberry juice.
See ya...