Short

Went with the short board today, hoping to get what yesterday offered up.
Close but much smaller and inconsistent.
I still burned my share and it was so refreshing to ride shorter.
Nice perfect peelers into the cove, each ending in less than a foot of water, crystal clear faces draining sand off the beach.
The little yellow board flies under my feet, one pump out of the take off and whoosh, I am off and running.
Got some tasty snaps and one very fulfilling cutback into a deep bowl.
Think I will park the logs for a bit and enjoy the roller coaster.

I was able to share a bit of the stoke before the paddle out...it's a new thing, like phone sex but surf...er..something.
Right.
It's late, I am tired from the surf, the afternoon nap and some thinking I have been doing.

Almost tripped to Eugene to see O.A.R. and the Dirty heads but with Octoberfish happening tomorrow, just couldn't swing it.
Would have been tough in more ways than one.

That's all I needed to dump here...
Have a great weekend kiddies, get some, surf like a child, like you can breathe underwater, like your fin is loose, like you may wake up in a cottage on Lake Washington one morning with a hangover and finding a note left
on a pillow..."Gone surfing..."