"Things a surfer in LA might say for 200, Alex"

"When I was in the water yesterday, I told one of my friends that we need to start cutting people's leashes. It was that crowded and stupid!"

Sistah...if you only knew...you don't so...

We started using Zip ties in 1973, paddling up behind those who just didn't get it, zipping the bungee cord looking leashes together and then paddling away.
We did this weather we lived there or not.
My Pop's and I were surfing a big hurricane swell, I think the legendary Norman? Anyway, we went down to Seal Beach and had a go at the South Side and up to what I think was called Crabs then. I was getting consistently snaked by this older guy ( I was 14 maybe but already winning the WSA's at home ), Pop's had words with the guy, the guy got smartass and Pop's swam over and ripped the guys fin and box out and started stabbing him with it.
Ah, we were wild then...
I saw more than one car go up in flames at Topanga, saw a few stolen and parked up the Canyon, saw a guy take a crap on Sarlo's car hood right there in the lot at the 'Bu.
I don't condone those things these days ( no pictures means no pictures, dig? ), we have no crowd here but my time in SC surfing often finds me in a pack of 60, half of which think the wave I am on is the last one that is ever going to roll in from the Great Pacific.
These are point waves so there is time...time to hoot the droppers in, encourage them, tell them to "go go go"...and then watch them fall off as I roundhouse back to the pocket.
Something else in use in SC and it may apply elsewhere, if they have a leash, go on them, if it's a pop out Surf Tec or some Chinese shit, go.
I heard that from a Core local at Pleasures, a series of spots that endures a massive flood of kook types with zero etiquette, mostly on rentals. Cowell's has that same vibe but with so much room on the wave, it's easy to go easy.
I always tell girls to go, kids too, I try to mention that hey, if I look scared don't drop in but otherwise, go ahead. And I am a definite wave hog. No doubt, I didn't plan a trip around a swell, spend a bunch of time and money and then drive 550 miles one way to watch some one else surf.
Nope.

Skills get respect, far more than an aggro attitude I think.

Unless you live here in Oregon, then said skills (and Jah forbid, shape and write about it) get you hated because you can actually surf.
Weird.

Be mellow, pick a spot, ride it every day, good, bad, ugly, tossed, pay your dues. I earned my spot at Topanga that way, took years but to this day, I can roll up and get some with no worries-though most of my contemporaries have moved on or died. Having a relationship with the spot itself is a good thing, fuck the people.
I live 552 miles from 38th st, within minutes of hitting the water, I have 6 'Hey Oregon Tony!' hellos in my pocket. Of course they know if I show up, waves are coming.
Earned it.

But yeah, Zip ties are safer than a box cutter...lolz.
Take care Sistah

And yes, Sistah, heading South later this week and then back up for the Noll Contest, what can I say, I am a Surfer!