Stealing Bliss

Not quite ready to call it a Summer.
South swell, 4.5' at 17 hitting SC today, filling in behind a decent waist high they have had all week. Talked to Mike last night, said its been good.
Flat here.
Nice out but flat.
Who knows.

I am sick from the weekend, some nasal crud that is making me ache, my eyes hurt, back is real stiff.
And yet I am up at 0500 looking at the Oz weather site, tracking what may be the last two cyclones for the season.
I may be able to make a run for it but something tells me its time.

In other news...the Bliss left over from the weekend has been stolen by Crystal and her 'you had fun but let me fuck this up for you' seemingly mission in life.
I know I am getting old but that shit is really getting old. Seems to happen every time I get some happy going. Kind of done with it.

"And you, a self described cactus. Waiting patiently for the rain. A drop of water. A fine mist even. Or the monsoon. To be swept away… and…."

What to do...nothing I suppose, been compromising so long I could write a book on it.
"I’ve always reached for adventure, to live in the moment. To enjoy every rain drop, every sun ray. And I have enjoyed many of these small moments, piled on top of each other. I store these away to pull out on strings of days that go on too long without a smile. But surfing… now THERE is a moment to live in. A wall of water begins to move thousands of miles away, fueled by a storm, an argument between high and low pressure, a fight between warm and cold. These storms are blown by wind, along strange lines of delineation, that JUST might end up on the coast you are on. You can count the waves, the length between them, how tall they are. But you can’t describe what it is to ride on that waves energy. To share momentum with that wall of water molecules that traveled thousands of miles. To share that moment, on that wall of water… with someone is an experience in and of itself."

Sharing is good.

Well, not much left to say here, I am not in the best of moods.
Need to surf.
Need to run it all into the ground as I meander southward chasing the last of the Summer Sun and when its all in pieces on the ground, when my van is done, my boards are done, my hope is gone...thank my lucky stars for a great life and then strip down to skin, wander into my Mother Ocean, swim out till I cant swim any more.
And call it.

See ya kiddies.