Yeah, rolled up just as the Sun appeared...
And the surf was OMGZBBQMotherfuckingHUGE!
Really.
It was good.
But alas...too big for me and my road dog.
It was also too big for the three who tried to get at it but failed, the one who burned one but was eaten by the whitewater monster...and one lucky guy who made it into a left handed maw only to find he had too little board...he was EATEN ALIVE.
Ok, maybe not but I passed, no thank you.
Split to home and surfed the sissy spot for three hours...my surf buddy Rosie was out for almost five.
Did you know that she can cross step to the nose and back?
Did I mention she has been surfing for two months?
She actually took over MY spot, MY Island...
Ya little twit!
Claimed it, she did.
But it's all good, I taught her some, she took to the rest.
Bitchin.
And that's it for now, time for bed....
See ya.
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