So we did a Range of short trips south and a bit north.
Scored four spots to the south in one day, finishing up on the SUP with Rhynn down at South Beach....in trunks. Water was 64, nice. Waves were good, we caught spot X on a heaving tide but peaked out and never got our hair wet surfing some playful rights and lefts.
Surfed a certain Cape a bit later and had some hairball rights and then off to a colorful rock for some beach break tubes on our body boards...off to CC for lunch and surfed till dark in some small but lined up lefts. Ran into Rhynn, shot the shit about the upcoming contest, had dinner up Elk Valley road, back to the beach for a fire and conversation....
And that was day one.
Throw in bigger surf for days two and three, less Rhynn, more rights.
Home every night, gone by 0500 every day.
Guy could get used to that....oh, I did.
Got some good local yesterday till ripping one of the fins on my Simmons, laid over on a rail HARD and pop, no more fin. Shitty lay up no doubt...or massive power out of my legs...you decide.
The 10' is still laid up, close to dry but not doable yet, just need to lay some deck glass and fill it for the contest next weekend.
Stella is surfing too in the 6-7-8 class with parent.
Expect her to place, I do.
She has been surfing now for more than half of her life.
Yes.
In other news, my surf Brah who wears a bra is outta here in a few days, going to miss her something fierce, been a true road dog and has really come up in her game, she surfs better than more than a few guys I know.
And she has only been at it two months.
But I have passed on every thing I could to her, she knows the water now, rarely gets her hair wet, her pop up is on lock and her bottom turns are real.
Here is one for you Rosie, long may you paddle hard...and thank you for lighting my stoke up and yes sweetie, I will tap that spot we glassed the other day, I promise.
Stella and I hit the local today for some practice, those Noll judges want some footwork-which I get but I do have an issue with the board size. Used to be that a longboard was any board 3 feet longer than the rider, Stella rides a 6'10 usually. She turns, up and down the face, small cutbacks, you know, actually surfs the wave. But on a 9'0", she is reduced to walking the nose, switch and some little drop knee stuff.
And no, she doesn't wear a leash.
WTF?
I get it but they little should let the kids ride what they usually ride if it is 3' longer than they are.
Well, suits to dry, lunches to make, Moon is still high in the sky, gotta run....
See ya kiddies....
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