Found some decent lower tide stuff, had a great session yesterday afternoon though it was a bit on the lulled side.
The stringerless pin tail I have been riding is the perfect go to in shifty beach break for me, light, loose and projects so well out of a good bottom turn, it almost tossed me off the tail when I came off the bottom and went into a high trim line for a tight section, unintentional soul arch saved the day.
The speed off the bottom and the drive really sets this board apart from other HP type longboards I have ridden.
That and it comes around good when inclined to hit the lip, Mr. Teeth was surprised I pulled it back around after throwing it up almost vertical-on a three foot face.
I did get to swim a bit, three on Saturday and once yesterday.
But in such soft surf, a leash is nothing more than drag, who needs it?
"Between you two guys, I'm lucky to catch anything!"
Overheard in the line up.
I was dogging a guy a bit on Saturday so I took a penalty paddle to the south and kept myself out of the line up for two sets.
A wave came through against the rocks so I rode it too.
Geez, Karma.
But the news from SC..."all time"...I watched the cam at Steamers and Middle Peak was showing 8' faces at least so yeah, we missed out.
This weekend is a repeat pattern except for the tides, I am working on Mr. Teeth already. Crystal dances in Portland and Salem this weekend so I am free from Thursday morning onward....hello?
Well, stoked.
See ya.
