Well, not really.
Was a good year.
Lots of waves, a few stand out.
A reeling tube ride at first peak that got me shaka's when I got back to the line up.
Swapping boards with the locals in SC and discovering that I can still ride a 5'2"...if I have to.
Catching a local spot alone, often.
I shaped 17 boards this year.
The day at the local beach break when it did its best impersonation of a reverse Malibu, two hours of trading waves with Scott, both of us pushing the classic longboard style envelope-I know because it was mentioned by more than a few who watched...so many soul arches that my back hurt the next day.
On most fronts, a good year.
2010?
Who knows. I have trips on tap beginning in April.
I have an invite to the LogJam in SC if I can find two other longboarders to form a club...by the 30th of January.
I have a building project starting in May, adding a new shop and a second story to this house.
And boards, hoping to shape some more.
I am sure there is more but I'll let those thoughts come when they do.
Back in reality, wind is 52 knots...but I will go have a look shortly anyway, its rare I miss an end of the year surf session.
And I have the new sup done so I have to ride before I pass it on to its owner.
I never did get a leash plug in it and most likely won't.
Since the guy always uses a leash, meaning every wave ends with a bail of some sort...should make for more waves for me and a safer line up for every one else.
Ha.
Cunning, am I not?
I was able to shed unwanted readers when I swapped blog names and trends.
Sorry but I have no love for some people.
Its like breakfast, the chicken may be involved but the pig is committed.
And I have no use for a surfer with two years in the water, 11 boards in the garage and who lives 110 miles from the ocean.
Ya hear me OSP'ers?
And no, I don't regulate nor enforce anything where I live.
I show up, surf, chat, clean it up and split.
I would encourage others to do the same.
Well, wetsuit is in the dryer almost ready to go.
Happy New Year surfer types, be safe.
Oh, if any decent surfers here in Oregon want to do a club thing just for the LogJam event in SC, email me at retroshaper.gmail.com.
You need to be comfortable riding a pre-1970 longboard with no leash.
You don't have to own one, you can borrow one on the beach or....ride my 1967 9'6" Surfboards Hawaii Model A.
Its a fun contest and you get to surf 38th st. with only three others out, late May.
